13 Mayıs 2012 Pazar

How To Recycle a Scrap Oven Or Stove

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Appliances are easily sold to scrap yards as is. But here is a very simply way to make some extra money by stripping a scrap oven or scrap stove


First and foremost, If you don't want to spend the time to break apart these types of appliances, I think you are making a mistake. They have a decent amount of wire, brass, and stainless. Please reconsider!


Scrap Electric Heating Elements


Ovens and stoves are worth at least their total weight at shred steel, but a quick way to make an extra couple of dollars is to cut off the heating elements from electric ones. The heating elements are made of stainless steel, filled with power, with a core wire made of a special heating wire, usually nichrome, or a molybdenum rich alloy, or even Tungsten. Its important you get payed for the Expensive Alloy Scrap, and these are worth stainless steel price.

Welded heating elements are easily cut out with a small pair of bolt cutters, angle grinder/cutter, ect. There is usually two in an oven. One on top and bottom. The electric stove burners are different from the internal oven heating elements, but worth at least as much.







Strip Brass Valves


Brass valves are found in gas stoves, as apposed to electric heating elements. Brass valves are a little harder to pull out then heating elements, but it can usually be done quickly with the right balance of tools and brute force.

The first step to getting access is to pop up the top of the stove. This usually takes nothing more then a crow bar.

After prying up with the crow bar, you will see the brass valves connected to the control knobs. These can be cut off with a Sawz-all if you are willing to lose a little brass for a quick job, but it may take you up to 10 minutes to pull these out without cutting the valves, because they may all be connected to a single steel tube which denies access.


Also, if dealing with a gas stove/oven, there should be a gas regulator inside, which is bade of a combination of brass and cast pot metal. These are similar to what you find on a scrap grill or a scrap water heater.



Next, Strip Out Wire

The wire that connects up all of the components is high grade industrial strength wire, containing 75% copper on average. These copper wires may be of even more value to you by stripping them, but please make sure you are not waisting your time. If your yard offers scrap wire prices that come close to 70% of copper #1 price, just sell the scrap as wire.

Is This Thermocouple Wire?


If you are working with a gas oven, then there will be a thermocouple constantly checking on the status of the oven's flame status. This isn't aluminum wire, and may be worth more as a thermocouple. Thermocouples may be worth a great deal, because some thermocouple wires can contain platinum, rhodium, and other rare/precious metals. Many, more common types of thermocouple wire, are simply Nickel/copper alloys. You will have to talk to a scrap yard more experienced with precious metal sales.

Good Luck Scrapping, especially Scrap Appliances!


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How To Sell Scrap Copper

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This is a general overview of the steps I take when recycling or selling anything that has scrap copper.

These are 5 general types of copper that you will be getting your hands on when selling scrap metal, and all three types of scrap copper can be broken down into further sub-categories:
  • Scrap Copper Solids
  • Scrap Copper Non-Solids (Turnings, dust, chips, ect)
  • Scrap Copper Wire
  • Scrap Copper Breakage (Scrap Motors, Scrap Transformers, Scrap Copper Windings)
  • Scrap Copper Alloy

Selling Scrap Copper Solids
Congratulations! You have gotten ahold of the good stuff!  Scrap copper solids, more or less, are any types of unalloyed copper.
Scrap copper solids are usually the most sought after scrap metal in our industry (Read as "Mass epidemic of Metal Theft rocks scrap metal industry.") If you stole your scrap copper, go to Hell. Otherwise, place it into one of these three categories:
  • Scrap Copper #1 (Copper number one): Defined as clean copper clippings, punchings, busbars, commutator segments, tubing and wire not less than 1/16 of an inch thick. 
  • Scrap Copper #2 (Copper number two): Defines as unalloyed copper solids, at least 96% copper,  and free of excessively leaded, tinned, soldered copper scrap; brasses and bronzes; excessive oil content, iron and non-metallics; copper tubing with other than copper connections or with sediment; copper wire from burning, containing insulation; hair wire; or burnt wire which is brittle.
  • Scrap Copper #3 (Light Copper):  Light copper solids are, more or less, any type of copper sheeting that is less then 1/16 of an inch thick. This scrap copper is worth significantly less then copper 1 or copper 2.

Selling Scrap Copper Non-Solids
This basically covers all things like dust, chips, turning, ect. I don't feel like I need to really get into this too much, mainly because most yards have their own prices and procedures for selling those. 
Scrap Copper dust, chips, and turnings, ect are worth only as much as your scrap yard is willing to pay for them, and unfortunately, that is usually not that much in my experience. 
If you end up having more than about 10 pounds of these, I would suggest trying to melt them down into your own copper nugget to make more money. I have used propane to melt turnings down in the past. Find a method that works for you, and stick with it... If you don't think it is worth doing: Dont do it!

Selling Scrap Copper Wire
Every yard is different when it comes to insulated scrap copper wire. You may find that it is worth stripping your wire if you cant sell it for a good price, or maybe you will find that you never should strip wire... 
Scrap Copper wire can be sorted into 5 different grades:
  • 85% Wire: Thin case with a diameter comparible to a pencil's. If you have this type of wire, just strip it yourself and get full copper price!
  • 70% Wire: Romex/machine wire without any attachments. Found inside of any type of electronics or appliances
  • 50% Wire: Extension cords and appliance cords
  • 35% Wire: Thinly gauged wire with a considerable degree of attachments. "Communications wire" For example, VGA cables, telephone wires, ect. 
  • 10% Wire: Christmas lights

Unfortunately, most yards do not segregate scrap wire into so many types. This will usually result in just 2 types of categories for you scrap copper wire:
  • High Grade Coppe Wire: Any copper wire with a single layer of insulation.
  • Low Grade Copper Wire: Any copper wire with a double layer of insulation.
Again, THESE ARE JUST GENERAL GUIDELINES! Every scrap yard is different, and will purchase scrap copper wire with their own standards, be that whatever it is. 

Selling Scrap Copper Breakage

Scrap "copper breakage" is another way of saying anything with copper winding. (See How To Scrap Copper Transformers ) 
If you have scrap electric motors, scrap starters, scrap alternators, scrap transformers, scrap inductors, scrap ballasts, or scrap power supplies you could be getting payed over 3.5x what you are getting for shred steel. 
As a general rule, if I have any type of scrap copper breakage that weighs more then 20 pounds, I will break it apart into scrap copper and scrap steel. Depending on what your yard buys, you may not even have a choice, and to get a decent price, you must disassemble! 
To pull out scrap copper winding, I cut through the winding that stick out of one end with a sawzall. Then I use a 5 point hammer and punch to hit the copper windings out of their slots. If They slide out easily, I will cut through one end of the copper winding, and then pry the winding out on the other side using a pry-bar/ crowbar. This is also one of the techniques you will need to perfect depending on your situation. 
It is different for Scrap Transformers.
Selling Scrap Copper Alloy 
The world of metallurgy revolves around the broad range of alloys that can be created from any type of metal, but you are most likely familiar to the more common scrap copper alloys: Brass and Bronze. These are effectively the same thing, as the definitions have become blended in modern culture. This has lead many scrap yards to just call this price "Copper alloy" as opposed to scrap brass or scrap bronze.  (Technically brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, and bronze is an alloy of copper and tin, or other elements.)
In the beginning of 2011, scrap copper alloy is worth about $1.75 per pound, and is increasing with the price of bullish copper.
But other then scrap bronze and scrap brass, scrap alloys also come in the shape of Cupronickel, Inconel, and Monel. These specialty alloys are worth much more, and you need to find a yard that buys them for their higher scrap values. 
One unusually Scrap copper alloy source is in Scrap Silver Plate, and Scrap Immitation Silver. These are actually cupronickel, copper, or German silver. 

Check out my other how to scrap metal guides, and Good Luck Scrapping!http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

Scrap Inconel Alloy Recycling

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If you've been reading Scrapping Metal for more then a few month, you already know I have a thing for specialty alloys, and it shouldn't surprise you that this post is all about Scrap Inconel!
  1. What is Inconel?
    Inconel is a brand name given to a large group of nickel-chromium super-alloys, created by Special Metals Co. These metals enjoy the jobs descriptions that often involve the most corrosion filled temperature extreme task imaginable; were talking about environments that are way too degrading for stainless steel to hold up in.

    Because Inconel is made up of mostly Nickel and Chromium, it is fairly dense; about as dense/heavy as copper.  But of course, its worth much more then Copper.

    The composition of Inconel depends on alloy, and is what makes it so valuable. Nickel can make up anywhere from 25% to 75% of an Inconel alloy depending on series and nickel is worth 3 times as much as copper. Depending on the specialty metals that are added in, you could be looking at an alloy worth up to $10 per pound.

    Inconel, depending on the alloy, can have expensive metals like molybdenum or niobium added depending on the desired characteristics. Special Metals has a very detailed list and description of the over 45 different types of Inconel in production.
  2. How Much is Scrap Inconel Worth?

    As the old adage goes, "Something is only worth what others will pay..." I will emphasize that you need to find a well establish buyer before selling! Some scrap yards these days are still having a hard time paying for decent prices for shred steel or electric motors, let alone super-alloy! (Also, keep in mind the power of selling scrap on eBay)

    But, that being said, the prices of scrap Inconel should be somewhere between $3-$8 per pound depending on alloy and the scrap yard. The Inconel 6xx series is the most expensive, pulling in around $4.50-9 per pound as of april 2011, the Inconel 7xx series is about $3.50-$5.60 per pound as of april 2011, and 8xx and 9xx series Inconel will be $2-$5 per pound (these have the least nickel content).  There are many different types of alloys on the market, but those are the most commonly seen.

    As a scrapper, it will be very difficult for you to know much of anything about the different types of Inconel. The best, and most reliable, way to get an ID on your alloy of Inconel scrap is with a XRF hand analyzing gun, ehich leads me to my next point...
  3. How To Identify Scrap Inconel?

    You're most likely not going to find some scrap Inconel just sitting around! But even if you were, would you know what to look for if you did? We can't all afford xrf analyzers, so what can we do to identify Inconel?

    Inconel can be mis-identified as a non-magnetic stainless steel if you are too quick in sorting. But if you perform the spark test you will quickly distinguish the two. Inconel has small, thin, and red sparks as opposed to the brighter longer bursting sparks off of stainless.

    The most common Inconel alloys are all non-magnetic (but there are some exceptions, unfortunatly).

    A good rule of thumb for those who think they have a super expensive alloy... Make your yard test it! If a piece of steel looks funnier, and is heavier, then I make my yard test it! Call around to a few yards to ask them what they buy, or if they will test a metal sample for you. Any yard that cares about customer service will be glad to test something for you (XRF testing that is).
  4. Where Can You Find Inconel?
    Well, it will take experience, a keen eye, and you need to look in the right places. Inconel isn't used just anywhere... It is a very expensive super-alloy, and is used in all sorts of applications involving high temperature, non-magnetic alloys. This means things like turbines, jet engines, industrial furnaces, ect. If it requires high temp manifolds and exchangers, or corrosive and chemical applications, you could possibly be dealing with Inconel. High end cars can have inconel exaust pipes and systems, heaters, heat shields, aircraft/spacecraft/planes, welding electrodes, Thermocouples, ect/ 
Good Luck Scrapping!http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

How to Remove a Scrap Above Ground Pool (And Make $300)

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Here at Scrapping Metal, the goal is to help people find life in old disowned metal products. Whether that life manifests itself as business opportunity, extra income from some garbage you want to get rid of, or a nice way of finding work, life has been found. 
Unfortunately, the prospect of finding a second life for an aboveground pool doesn't appeal to most people. To those looking to get rid of their above ground pool, their most attractive option seems to be paying somebody to remove it; and if they are getting a new underground pool, then they usually pay the replacement people to take it down. (Sometimes the installers will throw the old pool in a landfill!)
A metal aboveground pool, believe it or not, is valuable as scrap. Even if it is full of water, you will be glad that you took some time out of your day to sell the metal rather then pay to dump it!

The first thing you want to do before tearing down the scrap pool is estimate its worth. If it is aluminum, it is worth much more. If it is steel, not so much.

Using any type of magnet, check all the metal around the pool. If the magnet sticks, then it is steel. If the magnet doesn't stick, it is aluminum or possibly stainless steel. (This is called the magnet test).

Aluminum pools are worth selling for scrap!
Aluminum Above Ground Pool Scrap Removal

If you are looking to scrap an above ground pool, you are going to want it to be an aluminum one. These are the bread and butter of pools, and they are usually worth enough money that you can tear them down for free, making your service a very attractive one! If you are a homeowner that doesn't want to pay to remove it, an free ad on craigslist will work great!

An aluminum 16 foot diameter round pool could net you over $200, or a 15*30 foot pool, today, could easily net you over $360. It is hard to quantify the value of a pool by perimeter length, because each pool has different segments, different types of braces, different supports, ect. If you need a more definite answer, do a little math to figure it out how much it will be worth. I usually pull a piece off of the pool and weigh it to see how much value is in the pool if I need to quote it for somebody. Either way, aluminum pools are very valuable for scrap!

If possible, grab these three extra items:
  1. Every pool also has a pool filter that may comes along with it. These will usually be sold as electric motors. The electric motors are worth about 35¢ per pound. Pull the motor out, possibly cut it up for copper, and you will  have another 5-10 dollars or so.
  2. Almost every pool comes with a heater. These machines can very often be chocked full of non-ferrous or stainless steel. One pool heater I picked up had a 35 pound brass manifold, and $30 worth of copper tubing in it. Be sure to check all of that stuff out! Either way, the pool filter and the heater should add about $25 more onto whatever you will be getting.
  3. The pool ladder is another important and noteworthy scrap item. These ladder are often made of stainless steel, and can be worth more in weight then the aluminum. Because ladders are often made to withstand the high chlorine environment of a pool, they are often made out of scrap 316 stainless steel, which is worth more then standard 304 stainless steel. 
All of these extra items, the ladder, the filter, and the heater, may be worth trying to resell if they are in good shape.

Steel Above Ground Pools Scrap Removal

A steel pool, on the other hand, may not get you much more then $50. (Again, like the aluminum pools – and everything else in the scrap business – it depends on make, model, and brand.) As I will discuss later, scrapping a pool will take some time, about a day or so, so it is important to be getting payed! Don't do it for free if it is steel, because that is definitely not worth the time.  The actual tear down of the pool will be the same as the aluminum ones, except a little less worth while.

This brings me to my next point...

How to Disassemble and Remove an Above Ground Pool

( Reminder: be sure you have permission to use the home owners electricity.)

1. Draining
The pools you are going to be asked to remove will most of the time be full of water. So the first step will be removing the water!

Where ever I have done this, there has always been a sewer point within 100ft of the pool. If this is not the case for you, you may have a harder time removing the water. The best way to do this is to get a pump.

Since I started scrapping, I have come across many different types of pumps. These water pumps are GREAT FOR DRAINING POOLS! (That is if they have much life left in them.) Things like jacuzzi pumps, sump pumps, garbage pumps, ect:
  • Plug them in and let them run; depending on the model, this may take a 7 or 8 hours! 
  • If your pumps run out 40 gallons of water in a minutem then, that is 2400 gallons per hour. If you have a 10000 gallon pool, then that will take you about 4.5 hours. 
  • If you are afraid it will take too long, use more then one pump!
  • If you arrive early, set them up, then leave, you can get other work done before they are done draining. 
Taking as much hose as you can get your hands on, run the water all the way off the property and into a sewer drain, or directly into the nearest water collection outlet.

2. Teardown
Well, this is the easy part! if you like scrapping, this is what you were born to do! All I'm going to remind you is to bring all of the tools you think you will need; electric or hand. (Again, be sure to request the use of electricity from the house your working on.)

If scrapping is not your first language, you will want to get a bit more aquatinted. Sorting the steel from the aluminum is very important if you want to make any money. Do this with a magnet. (magnet sticks to steel) Aluminum that is free from steel will get the most money from your nearest yard.

When I do this, it never fails; I eventually will bring out the sledge hammer and let that thing rip. Don't worry about breaking anything, because the scrap yard doesn't care if it still works as a pool when you bring it in!

3. Garbage
There will be a fair amount of garbage left over once you strip the pool of metal. There is cardboard, liners, plastic edging, ect. All of this stuff will need to be thrown out!

Depending on your deal with the home owner, you may get to throw that stuff in their garbage can. But in all honesty, that is pretty amateur. I take it with me and dispose of it as necessary. My local scrap yard has a dumpster they let scrappers throw their plastic/trash in, so that may be an option for some of you who want to maintain professionalism.

4. Clean-Up
So... It's the end of the job. You have packed up the tools, picked up the trash, ect.... But, now the homeowner has this giant spot of dead grass on their lawn.

This is why before I make a deal with the homeowner, I offer to fix that spot up for them for $100. All it takes is some lawn-repair grass-seed and a little TLC. Most people will not care, not want the spot removed because a new pool is going in, want to do it themselves, or they pay me to do it! If you want to make that $100 for fixing the spot of grass, I suggest you do so wisely. Depending on how big of a pool they had, you too may not want to do it!

Good Luck Scrapping!

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How to Scrap a Gas Grill or Barbecue

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The gas grill is a perfect opportunity to any scrapper, and although you won't make as much money as removing a scrap pool, you will find yourself getting a good amount of money for just a little bit of reverse engineering. 
For all those who plan on transporting a gas grill which still has leftover coals and soot, don't forget to tie the grill top down to itself so that you don't spill that stuff all over the back of your truck or the road. 


So you picked up a nice gas grill. The first thing you will want to do, is identify the different metals  the grill may have:
  • Brass: found in regulators, knobs and fittings. non-magnetic. 
  • Stainless Steel: Used for aesthetic purposes, and often is only found in moderation. Heavily used in upscale grills. non-magnetic.
  • Cast pot metal/aluminum/zinc: Used very often for the top and bottom of the grilling chamber. Non-magnetic. 
  • Propane Tanks: Many yards will not scrap these unless they are cut in half or drilled open; (which makes scrapping these tanks...*puts on glasses* a Pro-Pain..... YYYYEEEEAAAAHHHHH!!!!!!) But in all seriousness, these are worth more as tanks then as scrap. 
  • Mixed metal/shred steel/light tin: the rest of the grill, if it doesn't fall into one of these catagories, will fall into this one. 
Once you have discovered the metal composition of your grill, you will be more efficient when taking it apart. Don't waste your time breaking the legs off, if the legs are worth the same as the rest of the frame, ect. (unless it helps while packing other things into your trailer.)
The Scrap Grill Top And Bottom
So, once you have the grill composition figured out, you will often find that the grill top and bottom are made of non-magnetic metal. This metal is cast aluminum/pot metal/zinc. These tops are very easy to pull off and scrap separate from the rest of the grill. 
Cast [metal] is often very easy to break; It will crack apart when hit with a hammer. So, the most efficient way to break apart the grill top is by hitting its fasteners with a heavy hammer, breaking the aluminum at the joint. This will often leave a little bit of the scrap hanging to the fastening, but that can then be broken off with a few small taps too. 
The bottom of the grill is a little bit trickier, but is also worth taking out if it is anything non-ferrous or is stainless. 
Scrap Brass and Scrap Zinc Gas Regulators
One of the best parts about gas appliances, whether it is a gas grill or gas oven, stove, or range, is their necessary use of brass.




Brass is used when regulating the flow of gas in the grill. I always find brass connected to the knobs on the front of the grill which regulate gas flow, and in turn, flame size. The more experienced you are with gutting grills, the quicker you will be able to disassemble them.
Some grills have brass regulators which will not come out easily, others will easily come out with a screw driver and a pipe wrench. Either way, always have a reciprocal saw on hand for difficult metals. This will be imperative for fast work, no matter hat you are processing. These saws cut through brass like butter. (Hell, they cut through almost everything like butter.)
The next thing to look for are the propane tank regulators (pictured far left). These regulators are bought by the pound, and are worth as a little less then dirty brass. Don't forget to pull these off, as it all adds up. 
This grill has stainless steel sheathed components, and looks
like it has aluminum panels on it's lid. 
Non-Magnetic Scrap Stainless Steel Grill Components 
So, grills that are a little more high end will often have components that are non-magnetic stainless steel (like the example pictured right). When you find these types of grills, chances are, they are worth more then scrap value.

The first thing you will need to test, is if it is non-magnetic. This may be a chore because grills often have steel which is simply covered with thin stainless sheeting. In this scenario, you may find removing all of the stainless sheeting more frustrating to remove then it is worth. 
Grill burners can often be made of stainless steel. 
Stainless components can be sorted using the spark test. 
Scrap Value Of A Gas Grill
As with most things, the value of the grill will depend on metal content, which is dependent on brand, quality, and luck. Also, in the case with a grill, it depends on if you sell the propane tank. 
The average rolling gas grill weighs anywhere from 60 pounds to 200 pounds. That means the grill by itself, whiteout gutting, will be worth on average $5-$10. I would say you often find that over 20% of this weight is non-ferrous or SS, which will bring the bare minimal value of a gas grill to about $8 to a maximum of over $45. 
The average grill, in my experience, will bring in over $10. 
Good Luck Scrapping!
http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

How To Scrap A Water Heater

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There are two main types of water heaters that I find on a regular basis, gas and electric. 

The Scrap Gas Water Heater

Gas water heaters are usually pretty good scrap items. I find them pretty often, and am happy when I do.

They are a home appliance, and classified as a light-iron/shred/mixed-metal/tin item when whole. But, there is usually a decent amount of non-ferrous scrap metal that you should first be able to pull off.

At the cap part of the heater, there may be one or two Copper pipes that sticking out, or possibly a brass connector. With a magnet, check to be sure they are copper or brass. If it sticks, then the pipe is simple iron. If not, take them off with a pipe wrench. If they are too corroded to come out, then either break them off by repeatedly hitting with a hammer, or cut off with a sawzall.

With a pipe wrench, twist off the valve sticking out of the tank towards the top. This is a mineral deposit stick, and in my experience is often copper in the gas modles.


Every gas water heater has a gas regulator that is set near the base of the tank. These are made of a combination of brass and cast zinc/aluminum and have some brass knobs on them.

My yard has a special price for these gas regulators (you also find then on scrap gas grills and scrap ovens and stoves) and they are worth pulling off as they are worth at least 2x shred price, up to 4x shred steel. They are expensive to replace, so they may be worth reselling if you have the know-how.  An example regulator is pictured left, and you can see that it is quite valuable, almost 1/3 of the price of a new heater!

To remove these gas regulators quickly, all it takes is a few heavy whacks with a sledge hammer.



The Scrap Electric Water Heater
The electric water heater is less commonly found in my experience, but good for scrap none the less!

Electric water heaters don't have gas regulators, because they don't have use gas. (duh.) But, electric water heaters use heating elements to heat water instead of gas.

The electric heating elements are usually made of zinc plated copper or stainless steel sheathing around a nichrome wire. They are located inside of the water heater and need to be pulled out by disassembling through access bays located on the side of the appliance. 
Water heaters also have what is known as "anodes" which are there for the sole purpose of getting corroded away, thus keeping the steel container from getting corroded (self sacrifice if you will). These are often made of magnesium/aluminum, and will be very corroded if you want to try pulling them out. It is my preference to not even bother.


DON'T's

  • Don't bother trying to fill these with water in order to trick the scales. You will only make about roughly $30 extra, and it is so easy to catch this trick. If you are caught, your scrap yard will (or should) press charges. 
  • Don't pass up fittings. Some brass fittings may be very corroded, and can therefore be hard to distinguish, and/or hard to remove. Be sure to check all fittings with a file. And if you can't seem to get the fittings off with a pipe wrench, then I recommend setting the heater on the ground and pulling out your sledge hammer. Most brass fittings will break of after a few good hits.
  • Don't get caught with your pants down! Some Water heaters are made of very valuable metals (copper, brass, ect) more often then not if they are very old. DON'T forget to check everything!

Good Luck Scrapping!http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

Where To Find Scrap Magnets

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Magnets are a scrappers best friend, and are necessary when performing THE MAGNET TEST! With a magnet, a scrapper can pretty much sort all of the ferrous from non-ferrous metals. But where can you find them?


Magnets are such useful tools, and if you know where to look, they can be aplenty! These 5 places are a  "must-check" whenever I need magnets for a project.
  1. Hard Drives

    Hard drives are worth quite a bit simply as scrap hard drives because they are made of aluminum and non-magnetic stainless steel. But, if you take the time to pull them apart, you will find 2 large neodymium super-magnets!
    Proper disassembly is recommended, and this often requires a precision
    Torx bit set, found easily and cheaply on eBay. 

    These magnets generally have a magnetic field strength of 1 Tesla, and that means they are really able to show some pulling power. Nowhere else can you get such large free neodymium magnets!

    Each magnet is coated with nickel, and then epoxied onto a magnetic shielding super alloy. This ally is called permalloy, or mu-metal, and is approx. 70% nickel.  What makes this alloy so special? It literally stops the magnetic pull in its tracks. Try it next time you have a chance: stick something to the magnet, then pull it off and try to stick it to the other side of the magnet (where the shield is) and be amazed!
  2. Magnetrons in Microwaves

    These magnets are my favorite when sorting scrap metal via the magnet test. If you pull apart a microwave, you probably see notice the large transformer right away, and maybe even the fan motors or wires, but do you ever look at the magnetron?





    After doing a write-up of How To Scrap a  Magnetron, I heard more about how much people love the magnets from these things then about the copper! And it makes sense; they are big, easy to hold onto, and strong enough to get the job done! Each magnetron has 2 large ferrite magnets, and although they are weaker then a super magnet, they often prove more useful!
  3. Speakers

    All speakers have the same main components: a head, some copper windings and a magnet. Some speakers are hard to take apart, others are not that bad. But be careful, if a speak magnet is glued into place, it may not be worth trying to pull out. These magnets are ferrite (like magnetron magnets) but don't require ripping open a microwave.

    The downside of these magnets is that they are harder to pull out ( in my opinion). And the biggest magnets are found in big speakers, which I don't run across all that often, unless I seek them out.
     
  4. Electric motors

    There are many types of electric motors, and all of them rely on magnetic force. Many motors have permanent magnetic fields made by permanent magnets. The more permanent magnets you have in a motor, the more powerful it is (generally) so this makes electric motors a great place to look for magnets.

    To tell which motors have permanent magnets, they will be the ones that give resistance when you try to spin their shaft. If the shaft spins freely, then there are no magnets in the motor.
  5. Electro Magnets!!!!

    You see big versions of these magnets every day at a scrap yard. They convert electricity into magnetism, and are used in everything from door bells to washing machines.

    Making an electromagnet is simple; you just need electricity, wire, and a steel rod of some sort.

    I made my own electromagnet by gathering some of the necessary materials. Grab a scrap phone charger (or computer charger, ect... You just want scrap power supply that will turn your AC outlet into DC current) and cut off the end (not the plug). Also, grab a steel nail, bolt, or rod.

    Twist together the two severed ends of the charger, and split the two lines apart so you have one large loop. Then, wrap the nail/bolt/rod, so it looks like the picture below.

    Once you plug your charger in, you will notice the magnetic pull of the rod.  The rod will become more magnetized if you have more DC current running through the wire (by using a different charger), or if you wrap it a larger number of times.

    I made an electromagnet just like this, wired it up to a light switch, and mounted it above my work bench.  Now I have an extra strong magnet that I can shut on and off!
http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

The Magnet Test

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The Magnet test is used to distinguish ferrous from non-ferrous metals; or, rather obviously, magnetic metals from non magnetic metals. 


I found also, that it is important to have a magnet that works for you! If you need help finding a magnet, I suggest you check these cheap sources of where to find free magnets! Another useful test for scrappers is THE SPARK TEST


The Magnet will become your weapon, and with it you will sort ferrous and non-ferrous. 

Follow these steps:
  1. Step One: Find a metal sample
  2. Step Two: Find a magnet
  3. Step Three: Place the magnet against the metal sample.
  4. Step Four: Pull the magnet away from the metal sample.
  5. Step Five: Obey the magic rule...
     If the magnet sticks to a metal alloy, it is a ferrous (or nickel or cobalt) alloy. 


Ferrous Metals

Ferrous metals are alloys of iron, and they usually stick to a magnet... BUT a common misconception is that steel is the only metal that attracts a magnet; This mistake can be an expensive one. There are actually 3 (THREE) common elements that pull to a magnet, and those are iron, nickel, and cobalt.  (there are some others, but they are mostly rare earth metals. For example, gadolinium)

These three metals are known as ferromagnetic (ferro- the latin root for iron) at room temperature. Ferromagnetic, for all intents and purposes, is just a fancy way of saying "strongly attracts a magnet." So ONLY iron, nickel, and cobalt will have a force exerted on them by a magnet, nothing else.

Iron, is a common, cheap metal; Nickel is an expensive metal, more so then copper; and cobalt is even more expensive, more so then nickel. If your magnet gets pulled to a metal alloy, it contains iron, nickel, or cobalt (usually just iron).

Many other compounds (non-metals) can be magnetic, but these are easily distinguished from a metal alloy as they are usually ceramic; for example, ferrite.

Be warned; things that are not attracted to a magnet can still contain iron, nickel, cobalt, or a combination. Take for example, 304 stainless steel. It contains both iron and nickel and yet, it doesn't attract a magnet! (Actually, there are many different types; find out why some types of stainless steel  aren't magnetic!)

Metals that stick to a magnet that you should know of:

  • Iron / Steel / Ferrous
  • 4xx Series Stainless Steel
  • Scrap Carbide (made of tungston cabide in cobalt)
  • Nickel
  • Cobalt

Non-Ferrous Metals


Non-ferrous metals are generally non-magnetic (except for nickel and cobalt). It is worth learning to identify these scrap metals:

  • Aluminum
  • Lead
  • Copper
  • Brass
  • Zinc
  • Magnesium
  • Pot metal 
  • Chromium (used in Stainless Steel)
  • Pewter
  • Titanium
  • Mercury
  • Gold (found in Scrap Computers)
  • Silver 
  • Platinum (found in Scrap Catalytic Convertors)

As you guessed, these metals are very valuable and will be easily distinguished from ferrous metals with nothing but a magnet.  Only after you have been learning for a while, will you be able to sort metals by simple sight and touch. http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

8 Incredible Gas Saving Tricks For Scrappers

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Using a GPS is one way to make your trips more efficient,
saving you both time and money!
These 8 tips are for those who like to collect scrap metal that has been left out in trash, garbage, dumpsters, skips, ect. (In a few select areas, this is not allowed and could get you a ticket of $25-$100.) The money is good, you are helping the environment, but the only downfall: It usually costs too much in gas!

The commodities market is in a bit of a bubble at the moment, and while that means metal prices are expensive, well, so is everything else, including gasoline. After implementing these 9 tricks, I estimate I cut my gas expenditure for the week from scrap collecting by about 5-10% immediately and eventually more after finding a rhythm.
  1. Build Guard Rails And Buy A Trailer

    By pulling a trailer (large or small) and building guard rails for your truck (removable ones of course) you will be assuring that you will never need to "leave something behind" because you don't have enough room.

    If you are not able to purchase a trailer at the moment, building guard rails for your truck is a must, and provide more then function:
    • They help contain the scrap metal you have collected, stopping any possible "spills" of metal onto the road.
    • They allow you to easily store and transport larger amounts of scrap without being a danger to other drivers
    • They can be taken out, and put back on easily.
    • They can be used in situations not involving scrap metal, such as moving grass cutting equipment, ect.
  2. Set Up A Collection Routine

    Just like any business, efficiency is key. Having a constant plan of action is the number one way to stay ahead of the curve. The first way to do this is to have a collection routine, and slowly hone it into a confortable and efficient cycle. Do you want to collect for 3 hours a day, 4 days a week, 2 hours a day 7 days a week, or maybe just on the weekend?

    Learning the different garbage days near your house, and maybe further from your house if there is more metal to be found; yes that involves more gas, but maybe the drive is worth it! It involves a little trial and error, but that doesn't mean it is a waste; You will learn the most efficient systems, and that is what will keep you collecting scrap.
  3. Bring a GPS
    When driving through complicated systems of houses or condominiums, it can be a challenge just to know what direction you are heading in. With a GPS, everything becomes crystal clear! Like a hole has opened in the sky, and you are looking down through it, at your truck on a map clear as day.

    The thought of buying such a expensive device, simply for better directions, may seem like a bit of a dumb idea to some; but I promise it is worth it! Just like owning an angle grinder or a Sawzall, it will pay for itself!

    This tool makes distant trips to unfamiliar areas a breeze!

    My favorite app on my GPS is the tools where I plug in several way points, and then it calculates most efficient way to reach all of them. It is a great way to save gas, and time. If you already own one, definitely start using it!
  4. Save Your Scrap For As Long As Possible

    This should be a major saver for those who live many miles from their favorite yard, or any yard at all. The more trips you make to the scrap yard, the more gas you will be burning. Because your trucks are built to handle hauling, you will be saving many gallons of gas by turning four light loads into one giant load or two large loads.
  5. Don't Drive An Over Loaded Truck (except when you are driving to the scrap yard as in #4)

    We have all done it before, and sometimes it is a necessary evil. But, obviously, your truck will use less gas per mile if it isn't weighed down with an over flowing mountain of scrap. The benefits may outweigh the bad occassionally, like when travelling to the scrap yard for example, but every other time it needs to be avoided. For this reason, consider a route that allows you to come back to your "homebase" to drop off what you have collected.

    More importantly, unload your truck and leave whatever scrap you have BEFORE you go out again. I have seen some amazingly ridiculous people before: they will drive around with the same junk in their truck and trailer for days, even if they have a full trailer! So, if you have a full trailer, don't haul it around all day - leave it behind until you are ready to go to the scrap yard.
  6. Only Drive Aggressively When It Works (Obvious, but true)

    If you are collecting scrap on trash day, chances are, you feel like you need to be extra speedy in order to find anything. The thing is, you don't need to be! Unless it is early morning, and you are chasing behind garbage trucks, you really are not increasing your odds of running across things by moving quicker.

    If you start out collecting soon after people get home from work, you will slowly see the curb fill up with garbage. If you zoom by all the houses that have not put their garbage to the curb yet, then you will miss out on what they may leave out!

    Conversely, you will want to move quickly if it is late at night, or early in the morning, and competition is all around you. The GPS will prove very handy in high tension situations!
  7. Ask For A Container

    If you have any business sense, you constantly offer your customers a complimentary container. You will come by, pick it up for free, pay them a sum, and then sort their metals! ( If you have no idea what I'm talking about, read up some on the Scrap Metal Guide)

    Most scrap yards operate the same way: they offer free container drop off and pick up on a much, much larger scale. If you would rather save the time it takes to drive to the scrap yard with your ferrous metals, weigh in, unload, weigh out, and then get payed – consider getting your own metal container(s) from your favorite scrap yard. Of course you would need enough volume for it to be worth the yard's time, ect.

    This is still not the most efficient way to operate, but it is a big step in the right direction.
  8. Scrap With a More Fuel Efficient Car

    This is at the bottom of the list because, frankly, I love driving my truck around. But, the sad truth is that it is a gas guzzler.

    To save on gas when collecting scrap, use whatever car you own that is most fuel efficient, and pull a trailer behind you. This may mean driving a large van, or car and trailer.
http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

How To Scrap A Dishwasher

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Dishwashers are a surprisingly easy appliance to disassemble, especially when compared to things like scrap refrigerators. Check what your yard's policy is on dishwashers, as many are mostly plastic. For more info on scrapping appliances, check out The Scrap Metal Guide!

The first step in determining the value of a dishwasher is to check to see how much of it is plastic.

Here are the scrap metals you can find in a dishwasher:

  • Brass (from nozzles)
  • Copper (in solenoids, transformers, and motors)
  • Wire 
  • Motors (used to spin rotor)
  • Steel 
  • Stainless Steel (used in rotor)
  • Heating Elements (To stop 
There are several key units to pull off of your dishwasher:
  1. Motor

    This is, in a majority of cases, the most valuable part of the dishwasher. Because every dishwasher is different, there isn't really one, be-all-end-all, answer for how to remove them. Here are a few different set ups.

    This is a sideways mounted dishwasher motor, with an
    aluminum sheathed capacitor visible to the right
    This is an upright mounted dishwasher motor, with
    capacitor to the left, and black solinoid to the right. 

















  2. The key to getting the most money is to remove the motor from the dishwasher (duh!). Don't worry about breaking the motor. Use whatever method works best for you, weather it be brute force, or strict disassembly by removing the hardware.

  3. Solenoid
    The greatest part about scrap solenoids on a dishwasher are that they are so easy to break apart, and are pretty much entirely copper. With just a swing of a hammer you can knock that coil of copper apart, and then harvest its yummy insides.

    There is at least one or two of these on every dishwasher, and an example is pictured to the left. They vary in size and shape, but they are pretty easy to spot.

    The brackets of the scrap solenoid are generally very easy to pry apart, so pulling it out is really as simply as bending the bracket open with a pry bar.






  4. Scrap Wire, Wire Harness

    This stuff is worth pulling out!

    There is more wire in a dishwasher then you might expect, and a majority of the wire runs from the control panel down to the base through the front door. To pull out this scrap copper wire harness, cut the wire at the bottom of the dishwasher, then break open the control panel and pull out from inside the front panel. When removing the wire

  5. Stainless Steel

    Some dish washers can be made of almost entirely stainless steel! But the most common stainless steel component you will run into are: the spray arm, and the heating element.
    The bottom of the dishwasher tub: a stainless steel spray arm
    located directly above a nickel alloy heating element. 

    If you have a entirely non-magnetic dishwasher, you will need to clean it up completely before selling it as such. That means removing all plastic, all insulation, and any regular steel. Leaving a few small attachments, like screws, ect, should be ok.

    Note: Only non-magnetic stainless steel scrap is worth more then regular steel at a scrap yard.

  6. Heating Elements

    You know, the thing that gets hot! It is located directly above the motor,  but inside (as opposed to outside) of the main tub under the spray arm. It is pictured above, and is easily chopped out with a small bolt cutter.

    The heating element is a high nickel alloy, and should be bought at a better price then shred at your local scrap yard. 
http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

Scrap Metal Show Offs: June 2011

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So, it's been a long time coming, but I finally grabbed some photos to add to the Scrap Metal Show Offs page. If you would like to send in your photo's, yard tickets, or scrap projects, send them to ScrapMetalShowOffs@gmail.com and they may be included in the July 2011 page! I hope to see this expand into something more official, or possibly competitive. But for now its just for fun!

Here they are, in no official order:

Coming from Nate from Ocala, Florida: $480 of #1 copper pulled from old AC units and some demo projects.
That's actually about 4 to 5 months of tearing apart old a/c units and what not. A buddy got ahold of some gutter from his boss, and I helped him demo a couple properties. just started a stock pile of brass last week and already got a good lick.... 
Nate
Ocala, Florida
Nate M. Ocala, Florida


Dawn J. from Parkville, Missouri: A16 foot trailer piles with aluminum! Great work!
Dawn J. from Parkville, Missouri



Craig C. from Milwaukee, Wisconsin: A nice truck of sorted aluminum (some cast, and looks like an alloy wheel), sorted copper wire, and clean brass! Great take!


Assorted faucets, scrap grill valves, and water heater valves
Assorted copper wire, aluminum, and cast aluminum grills lids


















So there ya have it; The June 2011 Scrap Metal Show Offs!

If you have any comments, or ideas you would like to share with me, please leave a comment at the bottom of this page. Let me know what you think!

Good Luck Scrapping!!!


http://scrapmetaljunkie.com

Happy Holiday

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Happy Holiday to All,
We at Raleigh Recycling wish all a very Happy Holiday. 

This is our first Blog.  We are a growth Recycling company that is doing all we can to support our customers with the Best in Recycling Services.  We buy from industrial companies, demolition contractors, electricians, plumbers, HVAC contractors and of course the Public.  We are buyers of Scrap Metal, Electronics, Batteries, Junk Cars and Salavge Cars.  For industrial companies we are now moving into Paper Cardboard, Plastics and Wood.

Much more to come.

Raleigh Recycling

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This is a new day for Raleigh Recycling and Goldsboro Recycling.  Today the Blog is attached to our websites.  We are happy to now be communicating with all of you.  We will do our do our best to communicate all we do.  One of the key things is, people do not know all the things we buy.  See the tab called What we buy.  Copper, Brass, Junk cars… the best in Raleigh Recycling and Goldsboro Recycling.  Happy New Year!

Auto Salvage Raleigh NC

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Auto Salvage Raleigh NC in Raleigh and Goldsboro NC is now one of the services we offer.  We are not just a Junk Yard or one of the Salvage Yards in the area, we are a major Raleigh Recycling operation.  We are a full service Raleigh Recycling and Goldsboro Recycling facility.  I should add that we buy Junk Cars and Salvage Cars for Recycling, but we do Not sell parts.  Sorry.
http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/ or in Goldsboro, NC see http://www.goldsbororscrapmetalrecyling.com/

We are Raleigh Recycling!

Junk Yard

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Junk Yard.  Yes we are as many call it a Junk Yard, but Sorry we DO NOT sell PARTS.  We buy Junk cars and Salvage Cars, or even cars that are dieing or dead.  If you need to know where to scrap a car, or where to junk a car, we are the place.  Happy New Year!  We buy cars in Raleigh see http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/ and in Goldsboro see http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling.com/.

Recycling car batteries

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Recycling of Car Batteries, lead acid batteries is important for the environment.  The key reason is that there is very dangerous acid in the battery that hurts the environment and can hurt people.  Also mining lead is very dangerous and toxic.  We buy lead recycling auto batteries and we actually pay you for them.  Go to http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling/, or http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling/ for more.

Durham Junk My Car, How to Salvage a Car

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Durham, North Carolina is a great town.  The good new is Raleigh is just down the road and Raleigh Metal Recycling and Junk Cars is just off Route 40!  Come see us.  Tow it in, Drive it in, Push it in we pay cash and get you out fast with Cash.  Or call Dave at 919-758-3764 and he will come get it!  Running or not running, we buy Cars and Trucks!   If you are looking for a Junk Yard that has speed and is almost a fun place to go!, Raleigh Metal Recycling and Junk Cars, is a great place to Salvage a Car for people in Durham, NC!   http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/

Aluminum Can Recycling, Scrap Aluminum

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Aluminum Can Recycling is easy.  We buy cans, crushed or uncrushed.  In bags, boxes, etc.  Aluminum Scrap prices are high, so scrap aluminum is a good thing to have.  One of the reasons scrap aluminum is worth alot, is due to the amount of energy it takes to make aluminum is very high.  See http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/ or http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling.com/.

Raleigh Exports of Scrap Metal and Junk Cars

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We are in Raleigh and Goldsboro to service the public and the industrial community, as well as to have a safe work place and hire people in North Carolina.  There is another great thing that not many people know.  We are one of The largest exporters TO China in North Carolina.  Many of us go to Walmart and buy things made in China, but we at Raleigh Metal Recycling and Goldsboro Metal Recycling sell Scrap Metal, scrap copper, etc., TO China.  I repeat we are helping the NC economy by selling scrapmetal to China.  The scrap metal we sell to China comes back to the US as ipads, laptop computers, etc.  Honestly, it is kind of cool.

Thanks for helping make that happen.

LEED Raleigh NC Recycling of Scrap Metal

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LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design), is a program led by USGBC (U.S. Green Building Council) at http://www.usgbc.org/.  We at Raleigh Recycling NC are members of USGBC.  It is an important program for the efficient use of energy which includes Recycling, due to Recycling saves huge amounts of energy.  Making Aluminum, Steel, Copper, from old scrap steel, scrap aluminum and scrap copper, etc, saves a major amount of energy.

Importantly, we can provide detailed reports to Construction companies and General Contractors that give you all the data in detail for recycled materials for your LEED submissions.  Raleigh Recycling supports you, LEED and Recycling in North Carolina.  Also see http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling.com/, for support in the Goldsboro, NC area for North Carolina Recycling. 

North Carolina Scrap Metal Pricing per pound

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North Carolina Scrap metal pricing per pound is an important issue for us at Raleigh Recycling and Junk Cars.  Metal prices for items like scrap copper, can change Daily.  This is the same for Aluminum and Stainless Steel, but Steel tends to change once a month.  We at Raleigh Recycling and Junk Cars, work hard to give you great prices.  Prices change so fast that we have not been able to get them on our website, but they are on our phone recording at 919-828-5426.  Note we even buy Junk Cars for top dollar, so we buy as North Carolina scrap metal pricing per pound.

Thank you for finding us in the web.  If you are in the Goldsboro area, find us at: http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling.com/
Greg Brown

Where to Scrap a Car

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Where to scrap a car is the question.  Good news.  Raleigh Recycling and Junk cars at 2310 Garner Road, Raleigh, NC is a great place.  Come see us.  We are a great Scrap Metal recycling facility.  You can drive your car in, push it in, or tow it in.  You leave with cash and we pay up to $500+ or each car.  See more at http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/, or in the Goldsboro, NC area, come to see us at Goldsboro Metal Recycling and Junk cars at 801 N. John Street, Goldsboro, NC, http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling.com/.

Scrap Metal Prices

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Scrap metal prices NC is a subject that is worth explaining.  Most prices for non Ferrous materials such as copper, aluminum, brass, etc can change, weekly or even daily.  You can even go to websites such as CME and watch copper trade (get new prices) real time--the price of copper changes every few seconds.  We are Raleigh Metal Recycling, do not change prices every few seconds, but it may change as I wrote, daily, or weekly.  Steel is different.  It does not trade daily, or every few seconds.  It usually trades once a month, close to the first few days of the month. 

Importantly as metals change in prices (the price we can sell them for) we do our best to change our purchase price to pay you the most--the highest possible prices.Based on that, steel prices tend to change around the end of each month, or the beginning of the month.  

Come see us at Raleigh Metal Recycling http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/ or in Goldsboro, NC at http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecylcing.com/ to sell your scrap metal.

Gas Saving Fuel Saving Tips, Raleigh Recycling, NC

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To All:
Fuel prices are incredibly high.  See below, for a tab that is also on our website, which can help you.
Greg Brown
Raleigh Recycling, NC Scrap Metal, Junk Cars, Cardboard and Plastics.
http://www.raleighscrapmetalrecycling.com/
http://www.goldsboroscrapmetalrecycling.com/


GAS SAVING FUEL SAVING TIPS
Gasoline/Diesel Saving TIPSFollow all of the below and could save 30%+ ($20+ on every $60)
  1. Keep tires inflated at specified and higher pressure if you do a lot of highway driving and carrying extra weight-multiple people, luggage, etc. Appropriate tire inflation also extends tire life. Check about monthly, when tires are ‘cold’. Use great valve caps
  2. Slow down-Driving at 75 MPH uses 10%+ more fuel than driving at 65 MPH
  3. Accelerate slow, like you have a raw egg under your foot, that you do not want to break
  4. Use Cruise control when possible-allows for smooth acceleration, better on engine also
  5. When start engine, warm it up for only a few seconds, then drive very slow for 1+ minute, for engine warm up - no need to idle for many minutes - remote starter wastes fuel
  6. If manual transmission, ride in the highest gear as practical
  7. If going to idle engine for more than 2 minutes, shut it down. If Diesel, let idle for 2 minutes then shut down (idle cools engine).
  8. Combine short trips-a cold vehicle uses maximum fuel
  9. Get extra weight out of vehicle-Items not used-things in truck, back seat, etc.
  10. Keep car tuned (Plugs, air filter, etc.) and repaired (e.g. faulty oxygen sensor can
    hurt mileage as much as 40%).
  11. If possible, go slow when approaching red lights. Do not rush up, hit brake and then sit at red light
  12. When using A/C, once vehicle is cool, put A/C on recirculation
  13. Use Octane gas specified. Using higher grades than specified does not improve performance-note-this is a money, not gas saving idea
  14. Keep vehicle exterior clean-improves aerodynamics
  15. If have removable roof rack, remove it to improve aerodynamics
  16. Use recommended engine oil. If vehicle designed for 5W-30, do not use 10W-30.